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Rundown UK town's transformation from decline to BBC tourist hotspot

Michael Portillo visited the location for TV show Happy Valley in an episode of Great British Railway Journeys.


  • Aug 23 2024
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Rundown UK town's transformation from decline to BBC tourist hotspot
Rundown UK town's transformation from decline to BBC tourist hotspot

GBRJ: Michael Portillo describes the beauty of Hebden Bridge

Happy Valley's main location Hebden Bridge was one of Michael Portillo's stops in an episode of his BBC show Great British Railway Journeys.

While the town looks incredibly picturesque the politician turned presenter explained that in the 1950s it had slipped into deprivation.

The pretty railway station, which retains many of the original fittings, belies this but Michael revealed that the area wasn't always so desirable. "Hebden Bridge is a beautiful and sought after location, but in the 1950s the mill town was in decline," he said as he walked through the village.

In the 1950s it was in such a state that one time Poet Laureate Ted Hughes wrote a grim poem about it called Stubbing Wharfe in which he referred to the town as “the hopeless old stone trap”.

Michael addressed this in the episode. "He [Hughes] referred to the caved in history of the valley the graveyard of old mills, the fouled nest on which the Industrial Revolution had departed," he reflected.

Close up of Michael Portillo

Michael Portillo visited Hebden Bridge which was the location for much of Happy Valley (Image: BBC)

"But the thousands of tourists who come here take a brighter view. They relish the honey covered stone of the old factories and the variegated greens of the veil," he added.

Just 45 minutes from Manchester Picadilly it has become incredibly popular with visitors since Happy Valley as fans flock to see where their favourite show was filmed.

Part of the town's charm is the lack of chain stores and franchises. "The streets and squares are lined with independent shops," Michael confirmed.

"And Hebden Bridge's location equidistant from Leeds and Manchester, makes it an ideal commuter town," he said further explaining its appeal.

Sarah Lancashire in Happy Valley

Acclaimed drama Happy Valley, which starred Sarah Lancashire, was mainly shot in Hebden Bridge (Image: BBC)

The town began to enjoy a resurgence in the 1970s thanks to an influx of artists, hippies and conservationists who breathed new life into its dilapidated buildings.

In that era, it also became a popular spot for same sex couples to settle down and nowadays it plays host to the annual Happy Valley Pride, which is a queer arts and pride festival.

Michael spoke to Tim Whitehead, the artistic director of the festival who gave his take on the town. "I think the reason that Hebden Bridge is full of amazing people is in the 70s there was a lot of very cheap housing, and a lot of artists and non-conformists moved here then.

"It's a beautiful town now and the influx of people in the 70s and 80s changed the makeup of the town. There's really nowhere else like it in the north of England."

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