In the Brazilian capital state of Bahia, where 80% of the population identifies as Black, chef Fabrício Lemos and pastry chef Lisiane Arouca have been trailblazers in showcasing ingredients and techniques introduced by enslaved Africans, blending them with indigenous Brazilian and European influences. In their native state, renowned for its stunning beaches, the couple explores diverse biomes and collaborates with local producers, paving the way for other chefs to incorporate local dishes into their fine dining menus as well. Some of their dishes celebrate forgotten African dishes such as efó, a stew made with native herbs, dried shrimp, and peanuts. Others focus on foods associated with Candomblé, a local belief system where meals are a medium of worship for orixás (deities), like a dessert created for Iemanjá, the goddess of the sea, which combines cassava pearls and ice cream made from umbu, a sweet and tangy fruit native to Brazil. In the same building as their fine dining restaurant Origem, the chefs will open a research lab in the fall to catalog their methods and introduce visitors to Bahia cuisine. “We plan for it to be like a live gastronomic museum,” says Lemos.
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