The invitation to HELIOT EMIL’s SS25 presentation in Paris took the form of an amorphous stone affixed to a metal tab engraved with the words “Cultural Construct Artificial Landscape.” The name suggests thought-provoking opposites when rearranged: humanity vs. artificiality and construct vs. landscape.
The contradictions are explored further in a special center piece made by Encor Studio. HELIOT EMIL described the strobing electrochromic glass sculpture as illustrative of the “tension between what is natural and what is artificial” – a familiar tension that is felt on many lines today from generative AI to climate change.
The brand conjures images of Iceland's contrasting geological features of fire and ice to interact with this theme. In an Instagram post, creative director Julius Juul said “I took inspiration from Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes. There’s something almost otherworldly about it like the volcanic beaches, the black on black mountains, the way the sand dunes form these organic, flowing shapes.”
There is a certain minimalism about freshly birthed volcanic landscapes that is mirrored in the layered and textured simplicity of the Danish brand's SS25 collection. Black-on-black styling dominated the line, finding dimension through curvy lines and draped panels that recall the smooth folds of black lava fields. Hardware and accessories also got the geological treatment, from a molten chrome ore draped over one model’s shoulder to the undulating carabiners that reappeared on looks throughout the collection. The range was softened by a terry-like material embedded with winding grooves on a hoodie and an extremely loose-knit yarn used for summer sweaters and skull caps.
Visible openings within a lattice of irregular quilting optimizes puffer jackets for warm weather conditions. Off-white windbreaker sets were made with overlapping webs of opaque fabric and translucent windows as if to achieve some form of biomimicry. The collection is indeed “otherworldly” and at moments reminiscent of interplanetary sci-fi stories like Dune. Futuristic design details like cooling vents, complex systems of multi-directional belts and zippers, and tunic-adjacent styles are particularly evocative of the genre.
The collection inspires a reverence for the natural world here and now, while also envisioning new relations with the unknown environments of the future. Whether by intention or chance HELIOT EMIL has prepared a line that looks not only to SS25, but a world beyond.
See HELIOT EMIL's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.
Click here to view full gallery at Hypebeast
