Marie Lueder's eponymous label made its London Fashion Week debut on Saturday morning following its smoke-filled presentation in Berlin. After showing only two months prior, LUEDER has migrated onto larger grounds by returning to its home turf escorted by the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN cohort.
LUEDER's Spring/Summer 2025 "ALBEDO" collection marked a significant milestone for the brand, promoting its signature theatrics while diving into medieval art forms based on light and radiation. As the second of four stages of Magnum Opus, the designer explored chemical reactions through natural pigmentation while partnering with French-British artist Thomas P. Grogan to experiment with alchemic reactions resulting in unique prints and patterns.
LUEDER's LFW debut saw models walk clumsily down the runway, transitioning into abstract dance moves that marked commencement. The brand unleashed its medieval army for SS25, showcasing 30 diverse looks that cut, dismantled, and reconstructed fabrics from denim to leather while keeping eco-friendly practices at the forefront. The first look walked firmly down the runway with swirling denim panels primed for battle, followed by deconstructed pinstriped shirting and knotted side bags to take on your next adventure.
Fantasy figures were wounded by fire-breathing underpinnings, concealed by leather hoods, and paired with distressed sweatpants for a prehistoric look. Retracting fabrics coiled on abstract bomber jackets that bloomed at the neck, seeing LUEDER craft suits of armor with asymmetrical leather uniforms while implementing stained and gradient finishes. Finally, LUEDER introduced soft tailoring for the first time, presenting strong-shouldered silhouettes with calf-length skirts taken from the history books.
Take a closer look at LUEDER's SS25 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more London Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.
Click here to view full gallery at Hypebeast
