For Miu Miu’s SS25 show, the Palais d’Iéna in Paris was transformed into a make-shift newspaper printing press for artist Goshka Macuga’s “Salt Looks Like Sugar” installation. On the show’s companion work, Miu Miu shared that “the artist presents a constellation of elements for deciphering the concept of truth and its representation.”
At the center of the installation, a mass of newspapers titled “The Truthless Times” filed through a mechanical conveyor as the models, featuring stars like Willem Defoe and Hilary Swank, walked down the aisle in decidedly understated looks. As Miu Miu presented familiar interpolations on office wear paired with everyday styles and retro references, the artwork invited viewers to reflect on society's accepted norms amidst the disorientating realities of the present.
The first looks demonstrated a haphazard approach to layering that ran throughout the collection. White knee-length dresses with delicate scalloped trims recalling the innocence of childhood were progressively deconstructed and juxtaposed with baggy windbreakers, drawstring hoodies and quarter zip pullovers. Standing out across the collection were disheveled tube-style tops boasting the Miu Miu wordmark and tied around the torso like sweater sleeves.
Echoes of the past began to make their presence known mid-show as trench coats with patterns that one would find on 1970s wallpapers were worn with exaggerated aviator style shades. Other recurrent accessories included overlapping metal belts and baggy leather handbags. Alongside patent leather pointed heels and loafers, brightly hued flip-flops and slides dominated footwear in the range.
Sequined dresses and skirts with floral appliques were reminiscent of Miuccia’s more extravagant designs within the Prada universe, but still felt restrained and intentionally sparse. Similarly, the collection’s mostly neutral color palette was accented bursts of bright violet, primary red, baby pink and sky blue. The paired back approach to embellishment and color were ultimately appropriate for the line, which conveyed a sense of everyday banality.
See the full collection in the gallery above and stay tuned for more Paris Fashion Week coverage from Hypebeast.
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