"This is the world stage," Todd Snyder told Hypebeast backstage at his opening-night fashion show during Pitti Uomo 105 in Florence. The biannual event has served as one of the most important global menswear trade shows for more than 60 years; and to earn the invitation to show on the affair's tight calendar is among the highest honors as a men's designer. Menswear's world stage, it is.
Snyder, who had not held a runway show in four years, admitted he was both excited and nervous for the occasion; however, the designer's masterful Western craftsmanship (honed at the likes of J. Crew and Ralph Lauren) and the 80-look spectacle's timeless appeal left onlookers wondering why it hadn't happened sooner.
At his core, Snyder is an American designer, but his fashion practice extends far beyond the confines of the United States. In fact, he commonly cites inspiration in classic Savile Row tailoring, and he has long looked to Florence's neighboring towns for his collection's elevated textiles. "Pitti just made so much sense," he said. "I make a lot of my fabrics right near here in Tuscany."
With Italy's finest materials in his hands, Synder's true talent lies in his ability to effectively mix them, revitalize them and turn them into well-tailored silhouettes that are relevant for the modern day. His approach to fashion is not fussy: "With everything I design, I begin with the past and I reinvent for the future."
Snyder's Pitti Uomo 105 show was broken up into two acts: "Black Label," for his debut as the creative director for Woolrich's new premium line, and "The Modernist," for his namesake Fall/Winter 2024 collection. "I thought both collections were so powerful," Snyder said of his choice to present both lines at once. "When I started styling the Woolrich line, I was so blown away. I knew it needed its own moment." Notably, the moment will continue into the upcoming Milan Fashion Week Men's, where Woolrich has reserved a spot on the calendar to showcase the line in a presentation format, too.
The Woolrich collection offers a bevy of sophisticated takes on heritage pieces from the brand's 190-year history. Printed nylon down parkas layer over hand-knit wool sweaters with matching snood, and cable jackets join wool tech-thermal leggings for warmth. Meanwhile, a merino shearling military trench coat finds camaraderie with quilted cotton pants; wool turtlenecks appear comfortable under sherpa-lined coats and wool cavalry twill coveralls, and buffalo check commands nylon parkas and down puffers alike. The collection's innovative technical fabrics put utilitarianism in the fore, while never sacrificing Snyder's sartorial flair.
Snyder's "The Modernist" line, on the other hand, is entirely inspired by music. "Loyle Carner has always been one of my favorite musicians," he said. "His reinterpretation of the classics resonates with me and how I think about design." Under the English hip-hop artist's influence, Snyder's Fall 2024 collection offers a new perspective on the "British Drape," invented by Frederick Scholte, the Duke of Windsor's tailor. In practice, Snyder locates the power in the fundamentals of (mostly) formal menswear staples, and he builds on the category's core shapes. This means wool slub herringbone overcoats, tweed vests, donegal suits and coordinating trousers with Tricker's leather boots compose the uniform, while knit sweaters, aviator jackets, field shirts and tailored shorts become deviations from the expected plot line.
"The Todd Snyder man, to me, is someone who wants to express themselves in a classic way but with an updated twist," the designer explained in his closing remarks. At Pitti Uomo 105, Snyder's runway articulated a particularly sharp vision of the refined 21st-century man's wardrobe, one that's quite simple in definition but expertly devised in form.
See Todd Snyder's Pitti Uomo 105 runway show in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more coverage from the fair.
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