Disrupting the Space - Trailblazing Fashion

The previous year of pandemic isolation has been a transformative one for many, especially in how we shop and dress. Many agree that, as we step back into social spaces this year, it’s practically impossible to remember how to do things that were once intuitive, like dressing ourselves. As pandemic restrictions loosen and international borders open, it’s time to think about the reopening of your wardrobe. You might be asking yourself what to wear or who the cool kids of fashion are these days. What’s a jardigan ? Can I still wear high-rise jeans? But don't worry, OZY is here with a round-up of future fashion trends, tips to up your game and emerging black designers to help you make sense of it all!

Disrupting the Space 1 - Trailblazing Fashion

For decades, Harlem has been an epicenter of Black culture. Yet until recently, Black designers had few avenues to gain broader recognition. Memphis-born Brandice Daniel has been on a mission to change that since 2007, when she founded Harlem’s Fashion Row , stirring up the industry years before diversity and inclusivity initiatives were at the forefront of the fashion world’s radar. HFR serves as a platform for designers of color by hosting fashion shows , including some that are part of New York Fashion Week , which takes place in September. It also organizes exhibitions and summits that help small designers of color promote their work and build vital industry connections. The company’s trailblazing work has garnered significant community support, including a collaboration with Nike and LeBron James in 2018.

2 - Fashion Without Borders

Though most clothing tags list the country that the article was made in, that doesn’t tell the whole story. From sourcing the raw materials to shipping the product to a home or store, most clothes take a journey around the world, reliant on a network of supply chains for all of the pieces to come together. But the pandemic caused a significant disruption in these supply chains , from retailers canceling orders to changes in consumer habits. The brunt of the impact, though, has fallen on fast fashion’s garment workers , many of whom have gone without wages amid the pandemic. As the world slowly opens up and supply chains crank back up, is the time right for fast-fashion reform so that workers’ rights are protected?

3 - Designing for the Future

Musicians turned brand owners like Rihanna and Kanye West helped break the glass ceiling of what’s possible for Black designers in fashion, and now others are rising to the occasion. This includes Louis Vuitton’s first Black artistic director , Virgil Abloh, Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air, and Kerby Jean-Raymond, who earlier this year hosted a high-profile, all-ages fashion show at the estate of Madam C.J. Walker in Irvington, New York, for the release of his brand Pyer Moss’ Fall 2021 couture debut, which paid homage to Black heritage and innovation . In a world where everyone is trying to be the next best thing, it’s refreshing to see veterans and newcomers showcasing their talent in new, innovative ways. At this year’s Fashion Week, Catherine Holstein, owner of Khaite , created a full fashion sensory experience that combines the best of both worlds, digitizing movie magic with augmented reality.

Look Good, Save the World 1 - Heels for Every Shade

Nothing is more essential than a shoe that goes with everything. Nude heels are perfect for that purpose and are a staple for the office or a night out. But, not every brand makes nude heels in every shade of nude. The lack of shade diversity impacts everything from Band-Aids to bras to ballet shoes . So, designer Salone Monet decided that she would make nude heels for every woman after working on a department store floor in D.C. Enter her New York-based eponymous brand, Salone Monet . It offers six shades of nude heels, making it an industry standout. The brand was endorsed and worn by Beyoncé for its commitment to inclusivity.

2 - Leather is a Lifestyle

If you are headed back to the office or are frantically running through airports again, you need a bag that works for you … and ideally, one that will last a long time. Materials like leather are ideal for longevity and the cool factor. Look no further than Made Leather Co . Lenise Williams founded the company after visiting leather tanneries in Morocco. All the leather for the bags is sourced from artisans in the “ land of colors ,” so you can feel good about where your bag comes from and who your purchase is supporting. It’s time to make going into the office fun, unique and sustainable.

3 - Doing Good

Seattle-based designer Valerie Madison uses recycled diamonds and metals to make her jewelry guilt-free and stunning. Making jewelry sustainably and ethically is no easy feat , so it helps to have a degree in environmental science from the University of Washington. One of the largest gold mines in the world lies in Utah , and the mining has caused such a large crater that it is visible from space. But eco-friendly jewelry is increasingly an area of focus for designers. By using recycled metals and gemstones, Madison is at the cutting edge of this sparkling revolution.

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The Change-Makers of Black Fashion 1 - Tadiwa Mashiri

Africans are used to being sold dreams. Mashiri, a 24-year-old from Zimbabwe, is trying to offer up a dose of creative reality to his country and the continent through Soul’d Dreams , a brand he started with his co-founders four years ago with a name that references those dashed promises . Mashiri tells OZY Soul’d Dreams’ work can be described as “Unisex street fashion with their inspiration stemming from the marriage of African history, fashion, art and postmodern culture.” But there’s a strong social ethos behind the brand, which holds an annual blanket drive where profits are used to buy blankets for families in need in Zimbabwe. To Mashiri, fashion’s about more than appearances. “Even though design can be seen sometimes as being purely aesthetic, the functionality of it sometimes is more important than we give it credit for,” he says.

2 - Dapper Dan

In 1989, Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon was photographed wearing a puff-sleeve, fur-lined jacket featuring the iconic Louis Vuitton pattern. Then in 2017, Gucci created its own rendition of the jacket but did not credit the original designer — Harlem’s Dapper Dan . The incident sparked controversy but ended up spotlighting Dan’s incredible career as a pioneer of hip-hop fashion. He was forced out of business in the ’90s after being sued for using luxury brands in his designs, and admittedly, beating them at their own game. Since being called out, Gucci has put money behind Dapper Dan’s atelier . Given his history, and his still-sizable influence on fashion today, we’d say that an apology is also a smart investment.

3 - Yvonne Jewnell and Tandra Birkett

This powerhouse mother-daughter duo is the driver of Harlem Fashion Week . Yvonne is a designer herself and attended Parsons School of Design . Her mother, Tandra , is a New York University-educated history teacher. So it isn’t surprising that their work bears the stamp of delicious design married with a sense of history. The fashion week is aimed at showcasing global designers of color and giving Harlem its day in the sun as an international nexus of fashion. It highlights trends that originated in communities of color — especially in Harlem. It’s a counterforce to cultural appropriation that designers and sponsors have flocked to in droves.

READ MORE ON OZY4 - Letesha Renee

The designer behind Chicago’s unisex, streetwear-inspired Eugene Taylor Brand is much, much more than a fashion entrepreneur on the rise. Once a victim of abuse, she started writing essays to help heal from the trauma. Upon realizing how powerful the experience was, she founded Safe House , a collaborative space for survivors to come together and share their stories. Renee joins them, reading her essays in front of other women. The self-described tomboy’s collections have been dedicated to icons like Diana Ross , but the brand itself is an ode to Renee’s grandmother — her middle and last names were Eugene and Taylor — who taught her how to sew.

Quote of the Day

“Anyone can get dressed up and glamorous, but it is how people dress in their days off that are the most intriguing.”

— Alexander Wang

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Disrupting the Space - Trailblazing Fashion

Disrupting the Space - Trailblazing Fashion

Disrupting the Space - Trailblazing Fashion

Disrupting the Space - Trailblazing Fashion

Disrupting the Space - Trailblazing Fashion